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| Kodungalloor |
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The ancient sea port town Kodungallur, once called as Cragnore is one of the few places in Kerala with a rich and illustrious past. The place can be called as the cradle of religion, commerce and art in Kerala. This is the place where fiction intermingles with fact. Recorded history shows it as a maritime port having international consideration because of its strategic location at the confluence of Periyar River and Arabian sea. This Indo-Roman port is mentioned in almost every ancient South Indian Scripts. The glory of Kodungallur is also mentioned in some overseas travelogues too. These scripts describe the harbor as crowded with huge cargo ships, warehouses, temples etc. The traders mention Kodungallur in a lot of names. Muchiri, Makotai, Mahodayapuram, Mahodayapattanam, Muyirikkode etc are some these, but the most popular name is the one called by Roman and Greek Traders, Muziris.
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The place Kodungallur is mentioned as Muchiri is early Tamil Literature, mainly in Sangam Krithikal (Sangam Literature include poems like Chilappathikaram, Pathittu pathu, Akananooru purananooru etc.). Later the place got different names like Muyirikode, Makotai and Mahodayapuram. The port played a huge role in the early Chera history. Chera is the dynasty ruled this place for a long period. Muchiri or Kodungallur was once the capital of the Chera dynasty during the Sangam age. Controversies also here. Whether this statement is correct or not, there is enough evidences to prove that, Mahodayapuram or Muchiri was a well fortified town under the rule of the second Chera kingdom. It is believed that the site 'Cheraman Parambu' located here once stood as the official residence of the Kulashekaras. It is also proved that, Kottakkakom, Senamugham, Balakrideswaram and Jayarateswaram were important wings of this town.
To the Greeks and Romans, this place was known as Muziris. It is believed that the name Muziris is derived from the ancient temple here, dedicated to Masuri Devatha, a goddess having immense power to heal small pox. Masuri is the Malayalam word for Small pox. The temple is believed to have built by the Cheran Chenkuttuvan, one of the legendary kings of the Chera dynasty. This Kurumba Bhagavathy temple now stands as a tagline for Kodungallur, because of its annual Bharani festival. Most of the historians believed that Kodungallur was the ancient Muziris. But recent researches and excavations says that the ancient port was at Pattanam, a rural settlement 12 kilometers from Kodungallur. Roman scholar and traveler Pliny described Muziris in his writings as 'Primiun emporium indiae'. There are clear descriptions about the Greek ships coming to Muziris carrying Gold and going from Muziris carrying Black Gold (Pepper). Pepper is also known as 'Yavanapriya' in local language, which means ‘loved by the Greeks'. There are also descriptions about a temple at Muziris dedicated to Roman emperor Augustus. Though there is no physical evidences of the temple now. Archeologists from all over the world is now paying greater consideration to Kodungallur for revealing the mysteries about this lost port. The excavations started just after a huge collection of Roman coins unearthed from several places near to Kodungallur. It is observed that these coins were issued by the Roman emperors Augustus, Tiberius, Nero and Trajan and belongs to the Sangam era.
Because of having a well-fortified fort, Kodungallur was the primary place of shelter for migrants from all over the world. A variety of civilizations and Belief systems first set foot in Kodungallur. It is believed that St. Thomas, one of the apostle of Jesus, landed here at AD 52 with the word of Jesus on his lips. This historical event started the growth of Christianity in the sub continent. Kodunagllur also sheltered refugee Jews from Middle East after the destruction of their temples at their homeland. It is also believed that Malik Ibn Dinar first landed here, to preach Islam in the 7th century. Kodungallur is one of the places where Islam first spread. It is said that the legendary Chera king Cheraman Perumal embraced Islam and built a mosque here, based on traditional Kerala architecture known as the Cheraman Perumal Juma Masjid. It is the oldest mosque in India and the second mosque in the world, where traditional Islam customs held after Mecca. Muziris was a place having majority of the people Hindus. Yet this religious friendly place entertained all belief systems and thats why known as the cradle of religious prosperity of Kerala.
It is believed that the port was completely demolished in 1341 AD because of the Periyar River flood. The flood caused an aberration in the direction of the river flow and the river split in to two just before Aluva. The flood caused the rise of a new island at Kochi known as the Vypin Kara and gradually the beautiful Kochi gained all the glory once Muziris owned. It was in AD 1405, Kochi became a countable port and started trading spices overseas. Because of its strategic position, Kodungallur was the ultimate ambition of all foreign powers that set foot here. The invasions started from Portuguese, then Dutch, English and Tipu Sulthan of Mysore respectively. All these lovers had given enough donations for the prosperity and growth of this port. Kodungallur is also known for its ancient forts, though most of them have no traces upper soil. The Kodunagllur Fort, Krishnan Fort, Pallipuram Fort, Paravur Fort and Azhikode Fort were the main forts occupied in this region. The great Nedumkotta (Travancore lines) built by the Kochi king Karthika hirunal Rama Varma, have one edge at Kodungallur. This fort was demolished by Tipu in 1790 during his attack against the Kochi-Thiruvithamcore alliance.
Culturally Kodungallur played a dominant role for centuries. It is believed that Elanko Adikal, wrote his epic poem Chilappathikaram, by residing at Kodungallur. The poem is about the serene love of Kannaki towards here husband Kovilan. The Kurumba Bhagavathy temple here actually dedicated to Kannaki or Pathini (the word 'pathini' literally means 'a good wife'). This heavy place having mosques, churches, and temples and also monuments having historical importance is a majestic tourist attraction nowadays. There are a lot to explore in Kodungallur
The place Kodungallur is under the control of the Thrissur District and is well connected by road, rail and air. The place is located 35 kilometers from Thrissur town on the NH 17. KSRTC and private vehicle operators offer frequent services to Kodungallur. The nearest railway station to Kodungallur is Irinjalakuda, 15 kilometers away. The nearest airport is Kochi about 38 kilometers away.
Places of Attraction in and near Kodungallur
1. Cheraman Juma Masjid
The Masjid is believed to be built by the legendary king of the Chera dynasty, Cheraman Perumal in the 7th century. Recent researches say that the Masjid was built in AD 652. This is the oldest mosque in India and the second mosque where the traditional Islam customs held just after Mecca. Malik Ibn DInar, a Sufi saint from Arabia, was responsible for the construction of this mosque. It is one of the nine mosques he established in Kerala. Under Dinars influence, the king embraced Islam and went to Mecca for Hajj.
The mosque was actually built in the traditional Kerala architecture. Though the mosque has been rebuilt and renovated over years. Unlike other mosques, this mosque faces east, not west- the Mecca direction. The mosque stands as a symbol of religious harmony as it permits all. The huge bronze lamp is there inside the mosque, which is common in Hindu shrines. Recently the mosque started celebrating Vidyaramabam, a custom of initiating children in to education. Not only Muslims but also a large number of non-Muslims usually visit the mosque. The mosque is located at Methala, 20 kilometers from Irinjalakuda. The mosque permits all in between 5.30 am and 6 pm.
2. Mar Thoma Pontifical Shrine
The shrine is located at the edge of the Kodungallur backwaters at Azhikode jetty. The shrine here was built in the memory of the historical incident, the landing of St. Thomas at Maliankara near Kodungallur. The shrine is located in semi circle and at the center there is a small church dedicated to St. Thomas. St. Thomas himself is believed to have formed seven churches or Christian communities here in Kerala, the first one being in Kodungallur itself. The shrine made in the same model of the Basilica of Rome. In front of the Church there is a huge state of St. Thomas. A painting is also here depicting the arrival of ST. Thomas on the shores of Maliankara. The main attraction in the shrine is the relic of the right arm of St. Thomas brought down from Ortona in Italy. The church stall here has beautiful collection of mementos, religious books, and wallpapers which are worth buying.
The Mar Thoma shrine is located at Marthoma nagar at Azhikode, a few kilometers from Kodungallur. Boating through Kodunagllur backwaters is a main attraction here.
3. Kurumba Bhagavathy Temple
It is believed that the temple have been built by Cheran Chenkuttuvan, one of the important kings in the Chera dynasty. This temple actually dedicated to Kannaki, a supreme women character in Ilanko Adikal's sangam work Chilappathikaram. The ancient deity was known as 'Pathinikadavul Kannaki'. But in course of time the prime deity is converted in to Kali or Bhadrakali. The temple is located at the heart of the town and is one of the leading Hindu temples in Kerala when considering the number of devotees come here. The main idol here is 6-foot high wooden image of Kurumba Bhagavathy. The temple is one of the finest examples for Kerala temple architecture. Besides Kurumba Bhagavathy, the temple also has a shrine dedicated to Kshethrapalan (temple guardian) and one to Masoori devatha. The temple is popular for the annual Bharani festival here falls on March-April. This festival attracts a huge crowd and
having historical significances. Another attracting festival here is Thalappoli falls on December-January. This temple permits only Hindus. The worshiping time here are from 4.30 am to 12 noon and from 4.00 pm to 8.00 pm.
4. Shiva Temple
The Mahadeva temple dedicated to Lord Shiva is located 3 kilometers from Kodungalloor on the Ernakulam road. The temple porch is very much attractive because it is decorated with carvings depicting people and incidents in the epic Ramayana. The Lord Shiva is worshiped here in the form of 'Shivalingam' and his faithful bull 'Nandi' also worshiped here. The temple is a fine example for Kerala temple architecture. The temple have a majestic gateway with a sloping roof and carvings of different Gods and Goddesses. The excellent 'Mukhappu' (entrance) is another splendid attraction here. This
temple permits all. 5.00 am to 11.00 pm and 5.00 pm to 8.00 pm are the worshiping time here.
5. Pallipuram Fort
The pallipuram fort, also known as the Ayi fort, was built by the Portuguese in 1503 AD. This fort is located on the northern edge of the Vypin Island. This is the oldest European Fort in India. It is believed that this fort had a tunnel, which was connected to the Kodungallur fort under the Periyar River. Whether this statement is correct or not, the Pallipuram Fort stood as a watching point for the Portuguese. The fort is located 10 kilometers from Kodungallur. The rapidly developing Cherai Beach is located just 4 kilometers away from the fort. Cherai beach is one of the ideal beaches for sunbath and sunset viewing.
6. Kottayil Kovilakom
Kottayil Kovilakom is a small village located at Chennamangalam, near Paravur. The place is located around 40 kilometers from Ernakulam town and is a symbol of religious harmony. The beautiful hillocks of Kottayil Kovilakom are unique as the site of a Hindu temple (Dedicated to Krishna) , a Christian church, a mosque and the remains of a Jewish synagogue, all within 1 km of each other. The synagogue was believed to be built in 1614 AD and is one of the few synagogues seen in Kerala. The Krishna temple here also draws a large number of devotees. Chennamangalam is an important center of hand loom weaving and coir manufacturing.
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